Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Making Meatloaf

Last week, when our house was looking for hamburgers for supper, I got my ground beef at Costco despite a couple of complaints.  "What are we going to do with all that meat?" they asked.  Leaving aside the immediate rude answer -- I don't always focus on food -- I replied, "Meatloaf!"

Most people are used to meatloaf that is dense, dry, and about as flavorful as the styrofoam the meat is usually sold in.  I have a few tips on keeping your meatloaf from falling into the same trap:


  • Get fattier meat, like 80/20 or 85/15.  Yes, your meatloaf will melt down a bit more, but the fat is where the flavor is.  It's also a bit more tender when it is fattier.
  • Use some sort of breadcrumbs.  Breadcrumbs were used in Italy to stretch meat, such as in meatballs, but is has another property: it is another way to keep meat tender.  I like panko, as it's also good for frying if you have too much.
  • Fry up some chopped onions and add them to the mix.  Onions are flavorful, but if they start out raw inside the meatloaf they won't cook enough by the time the rest of the meatloaf is ready.
  • Cook's Illustrated has their own secret: add a packet of gelatin to your meatloaf.  I have a different secret as I have trouble finding suitable gelatin for my Kosher-ish home: I use a can of tomato paste (I use Rienzi brand) and mix it in.  It adds a good tomato flavor and a bit of sweetness.
  • Spices are essential.  I suggest garlic powder, paprika, ancho pepper, ground black pepper and a little salt.  If you have a mix for a steak rub, that would work fine.
  • Eggs are important.  You don't need many, but they help keep the meatloaf from crumbling.  A good rule of thumb is one egg per pound of ground meat.
  • Ketchup on top.  It makes for a tasty glaze and it also protects the meat from getting too dried out - assuming you don't cook it for too long.
  • Make free-form loaves on sheet pans instead of using a loaf pan.  I suggest loaves no wider than your hand.


There are probably more tricks of the trade out there.  I like using roasted garlic, for example, which most people might not have on hand.  Should you have a lot of ground meat left over, though, meatloaf is a good way to use it.

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